Sunday, August 18, 2013
The most common finishing on woodworking projects is paint, which can range in color from the classic black, brown and white to the contemporary red, yellows and greens. The effect of paint on wood is as beautiful as stains, shellac and varnish but it can be tricky to achieve a silky smooth finish with paint.
With the following painting tips, fortunately, achieving a flawless finish is possible.
Preparation Is the Key
Paint will adhere to the wood surface when the latter has been prepared for effective adhesion. This is, of course, true for all woodworking projects involving other types of finishes like stains and varnishes.
• Wash the surface with either a TSP solution or a SP substitute, which will remove grime and grease. Scrub with a clean sponge or rag and then rinse well with clear water until the residues are removed.
• Using a stiff and clean putty knife, remove all the cracked and loose paint from the wood. Be sure to work in various directions to remove all the underlying paint, thus, preserving the integrity of the paint to be applied later on.
• Fill in the small holes, scratches and gouges in the wood surface. Use two-part polyester resin, spackling compound, or auto body filler; use flexible putty knives for the job.
• Lightly sand all areas that have not been prepped by scraping and spot-priming. Use either a fine sanding sponge or a 180-grit sanding paper for the job followed by wiping down with a damp cloth for dust removal purposes.
These woodworking tasks are relatively easy to do but their importance as effective painting tips should not be undermined.
Caulking Comes Next
Caulking the long gaps and cracks in the wood surface comes next. This is an essential step in painting wood because the cracks and gaps are also flaws that can adversely affect the silky smooth finish of the coats of paint applied on the surface. The best material for caulking wood is acrylic latex caulk, which will adhere well to the wood.
Choosing a Brush and Paint
Why sabotage all your efforts in getting the wood surface ready for painting by choosing cheap brushes? Keep in mind that the best woodworking projects are the result of choosing and using the right tools including paint brushes.
Expert woodworkers recommend using two types of brushes, namely:
• A straight brush
• An angle brush, which is suitable for cutting in and for detail work
Experiment with these brushes to get a feel of which one suits your painting needs the best. For example, if you are using latex paint, the best choice is a synthetic bristle brush with so-called exploded tips for easy applications.
Again, why sabotage your preparation efforts by using cheap paint? Choose the highest-quality paint within the budget so as to enjoy the best results.
Brushing On the Paint
The following painting tips are strongly recommended:
• Pour a quart of paint into a 5-quart pail, add the recommended amount of additive, and mix well. This is a better decision that dipping directly from the can.
• Quickly coat the surface with several brush loads of paint. Follow with the tipping technique where the first coat of paint are blended and smoothed by lightly running an unloaded brush tip over it. Avoid letting the paint sit for more than a minute before applying the tipping technique.
The paint should flow smoothly with little to no effort. Indeed, of all the woodworking tasks, painting the wood is arguably the most enjoyable because of it.
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Seasoned carpenters, do-it-yourself individuals and hobbyists dabble in woodworking at some point or another. Wood is a product that many people enjoy looking at, working with in projects and have for many years. During the Industrial Revolution, plastic and some metals tried to squeeze out wood from popularity, yet wood never completely left the market and is in as much demand as ever in many forms today.
Part of the reason wood has never gone out of style is the fact that it's so versatile. When woodworkers study lessons in "Particleboard101," another strong point is the strength and endurance of a product that can be handed down through generations as keepsakes. Take for instance particleboard and the many uses that it has for homeowners, businessmen, and construction people. You might just see it used inside for wainscoting, an interior sitting bench, shelves, bookcases and numerous other woodworking projects made out of some particleboard.
One of the down sides of particleboard is the limited use around continual moisture or dampness. This limits particleboard to mostly interior use and its use should be avoided around water unless it is protected by vinyl or an appropriate sealant. Particleboard can be stained, yet will be absorbent because of the layers of sponge-like material the boards are made from when they are milled.
Fiberboard or hardboard is second cousin to particleboard but have a more dense composition. Particleboard is denser than conventional wood. It is inexpensive and quite a bit more uniform than conventional wood and plywood. Particleboard is sometimes painted or wood veneer is glued onto it. There are several people who substitute particleboard for wood and plywood when the appearance and strength are less important than price.
Particleboard has been frequently used as cupboard doors, drawer fronts and complete doors with an overlay of metal or wood veneer applied for looks. The preference is because they do not warp or bow with the stress of use once they are hung. Another benefit was that screws, when inserted, will hold tightly for years as compared to plywood or other woodworking products.
Max Hemmelheber of Germany was the inventor of particleboard. The basic construction of particleboard exists today with little changes that were made. it is basically planer shavings, off cuts, chips or sawdust that are bound together with a resin. Different resins are used today in the 21st century as compared to the 19th century when Max first invented particleboard.
There are many applications to be considered when doing woodworking. One of these is tapping threads in wood. This is a relatively modern technology because it replaces nails, screws, and even bolts with nuts. Let's first take a look at why tapping threads should be selected over those previously mentioned.
When the craftsman uses nails to hold pieces of wood together, he is driving the nail into the wood, causing the fibers to compress and split as that nail is driven in. With time, the wood around the nail fails. It is not always easy to completely remove a nail, even though the joint shows failure. Using nails are a basic solid brute force way of connecting wood pieces. Stainless steel nails prevent the discoloration that occurs when other metals are used, which has been an improvement in woodworking projects. Tapping threads in wood, allow both the amateur and the professional woodworker not to have to face these dilemmas.
Screws are used in a different manner to join two pieces of wood or other material together. When you use a drill or you use a hand screwdriver, the screw is forced into the wood as is in threaded into the fibers. Over a period of time, the screws can be removed and replaced; however, each time that they are, the hole in the wood becomes larger in diameter. There is a possibility of that woodworking project being scrapped because it will no longer hold the screw. Screws can loosen over a period of years, but tappingthreads in wood has a better outlook than screws do.
Experienced and beginner woodworking craftsman agree that there are certain things necessary to have successful tapping threads of wood. Begin by choosing the correct size drill bit, which is used to create the perfect size hole in your wood. Anything larger than what is necessary won’t result in a successful woodworking project. The tap is then driven into the hole while it cuts the treads on the way into the wood. When an electric drill is used with that bit, it is strongly suggested to use a very slow speed. A drill press is very beneficial to start the tap. This woodworking application allows insertion of a bolt or other devices if desired.
Always consider using safety goggles and other precautionary measures while using power tools, even when tapping threads of wood is done
A project can be a hobby, money and time saving do-it-yourself work or a mandatory repair. In doing each of these, following a "How To Use Wood Fillers 101" can produce a successful outcome. Just as there are many reasons you would use a wood filler, there are just as many applications that can be selected as well.
It is necessary to evaluate the entire situation inside and out before beginning. This will require determining what kind of wood surfaces you are dealing with, as well as the filler that's going to solve the existing problem. The reasons you are using wood filler and the size of the job have to be considered. Let's take these topics one at a time.
Evaluating the reason the woodworking requires attention can lead the craftsman or amateur to a sustainable, shrink proof and stainable wood filler product. Something needing a small patch or the need to cover a blemish in wood is a reason to consider wood filler. Begin by cleaning, scraping or removing any stray wood pieces from the immediate and surrounding surfaces. This application can then be as simple as applying Elmer's glue and using a small putty knife or toothpick, depending upon the size of the project. Immediately apply the particle of wood, matching it to the furniture or project you are repairing. Even shavings of wood can be topically applied to a portion of the woodwork that needs wood filler by using Elmer's glue first. Neither of these will probably require staining because the same wood or wood shavings are being used to complete the repair. If the stain is desired, let the wood filler dry for 15 min. to a half hour to view any shrinkage that might have taken place before applying the stain to the wood filler. A damp cloth can be swiped over the work when the glue job is acceptable to remove excess material.
Structural repairs to wooden floors or large areas might require a solvent based type product. A grain filler is used for large wood surfaces and hardwoodflooring projects. There might be a need to use plastic-based fillers where extremely large holes are in the wood and require a filler. In this case, a trowel should be used to spread the grain filler across the area. Most of this wood filler should be concentrated to go into the cracks or holes and not on the existing floor that does not need filler. Let this stand and dry for at least 15 min. Test this wood filler with your fingertips to determine if another application is necessary. When the hole is adequately filled, it can be sanded down.
Another wood filler is wood putty, which can be selected according to color and area being filled. Take into consideration whether the putty is going to be used indoors or outside, and if it will be stained after it is used. There are different kinds of wood putty for those jobs. Some light sanding can inform the woodworking person when that project from the "How To Use Wood Fillers 101" has been adequately learned.